June 2021
For the first time in nearly six months we had a time frame and a planned destination as we had agreed to meet Hugo’s sister in Airlie Beach that week. From West Bay on Middle Percy Island to Airlie beach was about 125nm. Although we weren’t going to do this trip in one leg as there were countless islands in between that we were eager to anchor at. Even though we were running out of time we had decided to visit as many islands as possible, even if it was just for one night. So that first day we had decided to sail to Digby Island which was about 22nm away. With such a short distance to make that day we had decided to have a leisurely start to the morning. Although this basically involved us going ashore for a short walk to collect a couple of fallen coconuts off the beach for later.
Even with our late start we arrived at Digby Island not long after lunch and not wanting to waste any time during our fast visit to the island we decided to head ashore keen to see if we could climb one of the hills. However the nice grassy hills we had seen from the boat were actually quite a bit steeper up close and covered by thick grass and dense scrub. So that mission was quickly aborted as the vegetation was near impenetrable and probably snake filled. Instead we had a short walk along the beach before heading back to Allagai to try our luck at some fishing instead.
The following morning we weighed anchor at sunrise to continue our journey towards the Whitsunday’s. That day we were aiming for Scawfell Island, 44nm away, which our cruising guide had suggested was a small island covered in a lush green rainforest with peaks that occasionally disappeared above the cloud. This prospect left us intrigued and excited however with heavy overcast skies we had very poor visibility. So it wasn’t until later in the day that we got our first view of the island, and we weren’t disappointed. The top of the 300-400m peaks disappeared into the low clouds and below were dense green forests covering every possible available piece of land.
That day we were once again cursed with no winds and so had to spend the majority of the sail motoring. However this was the first overcast day we’d had in ages and it seemed the fish were out in force because of it. That morning the fishing rod was going off, we caught five School Mackeral but not wanting to be greedy only kept the largest one. Although after such an exciting morning we didn’t have a single bite in the afternoon. However we weren’t too disappointed and to make up for it the closer we got to the island the more in awe of it we were. When we finally reached the island we passed within a couple hundred meters of the rocky edge awed by the low hanging clouds tumbling off the mountain peak just above the boat. Rounding the island we arrived in Refuge Bay with an hour to spare before sunset anchoring about 100m from the islands fringing reef.
The closer we got to the Whitsuday’s the less pressure and stress we were feeling from our schedule. So the following morning before heading off we decided to head ashore to see if there were any walking tracks on this spectacular looking island. Along the way we rowed around the reef we were anchored next to, as the water was so clear and calm that we could easily see the fish and coral beneath. It was while out rowing that we discovered the reef reached all the way to the beach that we were aiming for, a lot larger then either of us expected and full of life. Even though it was another cloudy day the water clarity was amazing and we could clearly see the reef below including the fish swimming around the coral and bommies. Once we reached the beach we quickly realised that there was no walking trails as the dense rainforest and undergrowth came virtually to the waters edge. So instead of exploring the island we spent about half an hour wandering along the foreshore of this spectacular island before heading back to Allagai and weighing anchor.
That day we were aiming for Brampton Island about 20nm away, however we were still cursed with no wind and had barely a ripple on the water. So it was another day of motoring, reaching the anchorage in Swordfish Bay about mid afternoon. Once again we only stayed in this anchorage for the night and with a very rocky beach decided to give going ashore on this island a miss.
Our next stop on our crazy island hopping week was Goldsmith Island. This was about 12nm away so first thing the following morning we once more weighed anchor and headed off. That week we had the running theme of absolutely no wind and that day was no different. We were basically becalmed from the moment we left but with a deadline to get to Airlie Beach we had no choice but to push on which meant another day of motoring. Since Goldsmith Island was so close we arrived in the northern bay on the island a little before lunch. When we arrived there was only one other boat in the anchorage and a public mooring free so instead of anchoring we picked it up.
This was the first anchorage in a long time that made us feel isolated. We couldn’t remember the last time we’d had such a quiet anchorage with such beautiful scenery. We spent that afternoon completing jobs on Allagai but on sunset decided to head ashore to enjoy watching the sunset from the beach. Although with low misty cloud hanging over the mountain and overcast skies it was more wishful thinking and imagination then the spectacular sunset we had hoped for.
Airlie beach was getting closer with every new anchorage and so the following morning when we weighed anchor we said good-bye to the peaceful quiet we had enjoyed at Goldsmith Island. As that day we were aiming for The Whitsunday Passage and knew that it was about to get busy on the water, especially if the continuous stream of radio chatter was anything to go by. However as usual we had no wind and so the motor was essential to get us to our destination. That day we changed our mind about three times on where to anchor but finally we settled on Sandy Bay on the southern end of South Molle Island, 30nm from Goldsmith.
Leaving Goldsmiths we had mostly clear skies and amazing visibility so were able to marvel at each of the islands we passed, getting excited as the mountains on the Whitsunday Island’s rose in the distance. However the entire way we were chased by some truly menacing clouds due to a storm building over the Mackay area. Although luckily the storm stopped before reaching us and we where able to reach our anchorage without any troubles. We reached the anchorage just on sunset, dropping anchor in 18m of water in what was our deepest anchorage to date.
Once again this was set to only be an overnight stop as the following morning we were weighing anchor first thing in the morning to finally head to Airlie Beach. However that morning if I wasn’t looking at the charts or radar I would have thought we were in the middle of the ocean. We had low cloud, misty and occasionally heavy rain and fog. Visibility was awful and as such we could barely see the land meaning boats would appear and disappear without much warning. However we were glad we had a working radar to assist in navigation which meant even though we couldn’t see the land or other boats we knew exactly where they were hiding and when the would appear.
With such interesting weather we decided to cut our trip short. Instead of continuing into the busy Airlie Beach we dropped anchor one bay over in Funnel Bay. We were amazed as we had the entire bay to ourselves, bunkering down below as the rain continued pouring outside. However after lunch the rain stopped and gradually the cloud disappeared giving us clear blue skies for the rest of the day which was a complete 180 to that mornings weather.
We spent the night anchored in Funnel Bay but the following morning we weighed anchor and headed over to Airlie beach where we spent two nights. It was on the afternoon of the second night that we collected Hugo’s sister Holly planning to leave for our exploration of the Whitsunday’s the following morning.